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10 Ways To Improve Gutters Now
by Rufus Sherrill, Jr.
# 1 Check downspout outlets. Most gutter problems begin here. Small build-ups can cause your gutters to overflow. Downspouts need 1 square inch of opening for every 100 square feet of roof.
#2 Inspect gutters for leaks at seams and fascia board. Over time, gutter seals wear. Usually small water marks appear indicating a bad seal. Reseal leaks with a sealer specific to the type of gutter material. Aluminum gutters require a latex type sealer. Copper and galvanized steel gutters require a non-latex type sealer (i.e. Parbond).
#3 Are your gutters sloped properly? If gutters hold water, problems will ensue. Mosquitoes breed in summer and seals wear quickly. Gutters need to slope 1/4" every ten lineal feet towards downspout openings.
#4 Install larger downspouts at problem areas. Many homes are built with inadequate downspouting. Standard 5" gutters typically come with standard 2x3 downspouts. You can adapt a 3x4 downspout to a 5" gutter and triple the drainage. Larger downspouts are less likely to clog.
#5 Install downspout strainers. Though strainers are minimal protection, they will help prevent obstructions from accumulating at the gutter's drain openings. Strainers will also filter debris from entering underground drain pipes. Downspout strainers are inexpensive and well worth the investment.
#6 xt heavy rain, grab an umbrella and observe how your gutters are performing. Heavy rains will help you identify problem areas like drip edges, bad seals, and inadequate downspouting.
#7 Clean gutters often. Don't wait until late fall. The best time to clean gutters is when downspout openings have build-ups of debris. Homeowners often wait until all the leaves fall and many gutters stay clogged for months.
#8 Inspect you home's foundation. Look for erosion problems where downspouts drain at foundation walls. Bad drainage at foundation can bring unwanted moisture in crawl spaces and slabs. Extend downspouts further with additional pipe or extender (i.e. Flex-A-Spout).
#9 Install diverters at problem areas. Gutters with inside corners and steep roofs are an invitation to water over shooting gutters. Homes with hip roofs and gable fronts often have this problem. A raised diverter will deflect water into gutter and prevent a host of problems.
#10 Install some form of gutter protection. Filtering much of the debris causing clogged gutters can help prevent moisture damae to home's structure. Understand that gutter guards are not fool proof and need to be maintenanced periodically (i.e. screen type guards). Gutter guards come in all shapes and sizes. Select a guard best for your situation.
Mind The Gutter
Guters and Downspout Maintenance

A roof sheds water, but it's the gutter and downspout system that carry the water away from the house. Regular inspection and maintenance are crucial for keeping your gutters and downspouts in good working order. Inspect them in the autumn and spring, and clean out accumulated leaves and other debris. Then check the slope of the gutters by running water through them. If drainage is slow, reposition the gutters for the correct slope. They should be tight against the fascias and should slope toward the downspouts at a rate of 1 inch for every 20 feet. You can correct low spots by adjusting the hangers.

Test for weaknesses in gutters, downspouts, and fascia boards by probing with a thin screwdriver or knife. Also, look for flaking or peeling paint, rust spots, broken hangers, and holes or leaky joints.
Repairing Fascias, Gutters, and Downspouts

* If you find dry-rotted fascia boards, repair them first. Carve out bad spots and fill them with wood putty or replace the damaged section with a piece of well-seasoned lumber. Apply a wood preservative first, then finish to match the existing boards.
* Tighten any loose hangers and replace any that are broken.
* Check that the downspout straps are secured to the walls and that all elbow connections fit tightly.
* Patch any leaky joints or holes in gutters, taking care to clean them thoroughly first.
* Seal pinholes with a dab of roofing cement.
* If a section of your gutter system is badly damaged, you'll need to replace it.
* Repaint the inside of wood gutters as necessary with asphalt roof paint. Sand down rusted and corroded areas of metal gutters and apply asphalt aluminum paint to the inside, rust preventative zinc-base primer outside. Then paint the outside of wood or metal gutters to match the house exterior.

Unclogging Gutters and Downspouts

* Remove leaves, twigs, and other debris from gutter troughs (protect your hands with gloves). Loosen dirt with a stiff brush; hose all debris out of the system.
* Clean a blocked downspout by spraying with a garden hose turned on full force. Or feed a snake into it and then flush all loosened debris out with a hose.
* Add mesh screens to deflect leaves, twigs, and other debris over the edge of the gutter. A leaf strainer will admit water and filter out debris.

Three Gutter Repairs

* Leaky joint - Seal by applying silicone sealant or caulking around the seams between sections on the inside and outside of the gutter.
* Small hole - Using a putty knife, patch with a thin coat of roofing cement, extending the cement beyond the hole in all directions.
* Hole larger than 1/2 inch - Cover with roofing cement and embed a sheet metal patch in the cement. Apply another coat of cement over the patch.

Improving Downspout Drainage

Water that's allowed to flow from your downspouts directly into the ground may end up in your crawl space or basement and can erode the soil alongside the house, causing settling of the structure. To divert water away from the house, you can use Splashblocks, flexible plastic sleeves attached to the downspouts, or clay drainage pipes that carry water to a dry well located several yards from the house.

Splashblocks Place a ready-made concrete or plastic splashblock below an elbow attached to the downspout. Tilt the splashblock slightly so the water flows away from the foundation.

Sleeves An alternative to splashblocks is a plastic or fabric sleeve that you attach directly to the downspout. Some sleeves are perforated to disperse the water over a large area. Another type unrolls as the water comes down and carries the water several feet from the house; a spring inside the sleeve rolls it back up once the water has drained. Look for sleeves in home improvement centers.

Dry Wells If you live in a wet climate, you may want to link your downspouts to a dry well (check your local building code before installing one).

* Locate the drywell 10 or more feet from the foundation. The well itself can be simply a hole 2 to 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep; or you can bury a 55-gallon oil drum after puncturing it with holes and removing both ends.
* Fill the well with rocks or broken concrete blocks.
* Cover the top with wood slats or heavy roofing paper. The well's top should be at least 18 inches below ground level; the bottom should be above the water table.
* Underground drainage pipes, sloped 1/2 inch per foot, carry water from the downspouts on the house to the dry well.

To prevent roof rot and a wet basement,
you have to be willing to do a little muckraking

By Ted Oehmke
This Old House Magazine, March 2000

When Laura and Joe Amicucci first moved into their 1834 house in Fairfield, Connecticut, cleaning the gutters was low on their list of priorities. With three young children and loads of minor repairs and cosmetic fine-tuning to be done, they figured that this one maintenance job could wait until the end of autumn, when all the leaves would be down.

But by the time November rolled around, the large elm tree between the garage and house - its canopy of branches outstretched over both - had shed much of its summer bloom, filling and clogging the gutters. An early freeze turned the still water that was pooled among the debris into ice. Then it rained. Water overflowed from the sagging, ice-laden canals onto the ground next to the fieldstone foundation, snaking its way between the stones. "We came home to a bunch of little fountains squirting water into our basement," says Laura.

Gutters act as precipitation traffic cops, catching water as it flows off the roof and diverting it from hitting the structure. Smooth-flowing gutters are essential to the longterm health of a home; water that is not directed away can crack foundations, stain and rot siding and trim, and seep through roofs - not to mention ice up on walkways in colder climates. "One way or another," says James R. Kirby, director of technical services for the National Roofing Contractors Association, "You have to get the water away from your house."
Find An Installer In Your Area

The Amicuccis called Keith Roberts, a handyman with more than 25 years' experience, to clear their stuffed gutters. "It's important to have them cleaned at least twice a year - once in the fall and once in the spring," he says from atop a ladder. Roberts has seen his share of expensive disasters: In one Greenwich, Connecticut, home, ice dams sent melted snow from the roof into the walls, causing $7,000 worth of damage. On the other hand, the cost for semiannual preventative care usually runs a mere $60 to $120.

Roberts's first task is to clear the visible debris from the open sections. Scooping up a murky, wet handful of leaves and twigs with a gloved hand, he drops it into a five-gallon bucket hooked to a ladder rung by a chain. After removing the contents from a large portion at the back of the house, Roberts checks for cracks or separating seams. As he works his way around the house, he replaces loose gutter nails with sturdier screws. If he found any cracks, he would repair them by first sanding with 120-grit paper and then applying a butyl gutter sealant or a silicone adhesive.

Finding none, he inspects the downspout. He uses a small power auger, or snake, to push dirt and debris out onto the lawn. Usually, this is enough to loosen any blockages. But if water poured into the top of the pipe doesn't stream smoothly out the other end, Roberts unfastens the downspout and places it on the ground.

Detaching downspouts before cleaning then is always necessary when the flow right into underground drains, since snaking them just pushes clogs farther along the system. Carl Heise, a coppersmith in Fairfield who has made and installed many gutters, uses galvanized sheetrock screws when installing downspouts, specifically to make this task easier. "With screws, you can walk aournd the house with a cordless screwdriver and just take everything down," he says.

With the downspout on the ground, Roberts locates the clog the way one would locate a wall stud, knocking along the surface until the tinny echo becomes a dull thud. Using his thumb to force a spray out of the hose, he aims the water at the clog from both ends of the section. If this procedure fails, he snakes out the block.

Roberts inserts the hose into the underground drain and waits for the water to run clear out the other end. Then he piles small rocks around the point where the drain empties out to keep lawn clippings and dirt from clogging the opening. But he warns: "Never put your hand up the end of an underground pipe - those chipmunks can bite pretty hard. Use a wire or another object to clean the opening."

Roberts reattaches the Amicuccis' downspout, then takes one last look around and spots some mildew on the gutters' sides. After spraying the mottled sections with a mixture of bleach and water, he will come back the next day to hose them down, leaving the whole system sparkling. "Now if I could onlly get my van as clean as I've gotten those gutters," he says, after securing his ladder to the top, "I'd be in really good shape."

Gauging Gutters
Gutters bring roof runoff down to earth. Here's the (long and) skinny on what to look for.
by Don Vandervort

Gutters aren't glamorous. But unless there are long overhangs on your roof and your property is steeply graded, they're essential for routing roof runoff away from your home. Installed properly, gutters keep basements and crawl spaces dry, preserve topsoil, protect siding from backsplash stain and rot and shield windows and doors from water infiltration and damage.

WHICH MATERIAL?
Gutters and downspouts - the vertical sections that send runoff down to the ground - are made out of aluminum, vinyl, galvanized steel, stainless steel and copper. Wood is also an option, but wood gutters are rare, except for restoration work. They're also expensive, starting at about $12 per linear foot installed and, depending on the wood species, running as high as $20 per linear foot. Copper is another material usually reserved for classic restorations. It's handsome, never rusts and never needs painting. But at about $15 per linear foot, it's also expensive.

Stainless-steel gutters are strong and rust-free, and maintain their high sheen for years. But as with other high-end custom materials, the drawback is cost: about $20 per linear foot. For this reason, galvanized-steel, aluminum or vinyl gutters are the predominant varieties.

Steel and aluminum gutters are the types most homeowners choose. With prices ranging from about $4 to $8 per linear foot installed, galvanized-steel gutters are the most economical. Steel gutters can stand up to ladders and fallen branches better than aluminum. But even thick galvanized steel eventually rusts through.

Aluminum gutters, however, never rust. And at $5 to $9 per linear foot installed, they're still relatively inexpensive - two reasons why aluminum has the edge in popularity, according to Lyle Brandt, of All New Gutter Service, an installer in Fargo, North Dakota. "Ninety percent of what we install is aluminum," Brandt says. "If downspouts get plugged and water collects, you don't have to worry about rust, as you do with steel."

When buying any metal gutters, choose the thickest you can afford - optimally .032 in. Though .027-, .025- and .019-in.-thick gutters are available, they won't hold up as well. When buying aluminum gutters, insist on primary aluminum, which is the thickest and most consistent kind. Avoid secondary aluminum, a recycled product that's often plagued by inconsistent thickness.

Vinyl gutters, besides being impervious to rust and rot, are easiest to cut to size; you can install them yourself in a weekend or less. But vinyl can get brittle with age or in extreme cold. And while gutter sections cost just $3 to $5 per 10-ft. length, they still wind up at about $3 and $5 per linear foot installed when you factor in the cost of couplings, hangers and downspouts.

SIZING UP YOUR OPTIONS
Choosing new gutters also brings several other decisions that involve balancing convenience, esthetics and long life.

Sectional versus seamless. All gutters are either sectional or seamless (or continuous). Sectional gutters are sold in pieces and installed as component systems. All do-it-yourself gutter systems are sectional, though pros install these, too. The sections themselves can be over 20 ft. long each or cut to any size with a hacksaw. Snap-in-place connectors join gutter sections to each other and to downspouts. All sectional systems have end caps, corner pieces and drop outlets for connecting to downspouts. The drawback to sectional systems is that all those seams can eventually invite leaks.

Seamless gutters won't leak at seams because there are none; sections join only at inside and outside corners and at downspout outlets. That's why they're the most popular configuration. Seamless gutters, made of aluminum, galvanized steel or copper, are extruded to custom lengths on site using a portable machine. But, as you might have guessed, seamless gutters must be installed by a contractor.

Sizes and shapes. Most gutters come in several sizes and shapes called profiles. These include U shapes as well K configurations, in which the ogee-shaped front looks like the letter K. Gutter channels are available in 4-, 5- or 6-in. diameters; 5-in. Ks are the most common. You'll also find downspout choices that include 2X3-in. or 3X4-in. rectangular shapes, as well as 3- or 4-in. round pipes. Particularly in leafy areas, use larger downspouts, which minimize clogs.

Color. Sectional aluminum and steel gutters come in more than 25 different colors - ideal for matching trim and house colors. Gutter colors are baked on at the factory. Vinyl typically is brown or white; the latter color holds up better in intense sun. Copper is prized for its natural color and comes unpainted. If you like the look of copper but not the price, Alcoa sells a faux-copper gutter made of aluminum. Called Musket Brown, it sells for about $9 per linear foot installed.

Maintaining Your Gutters
Working gutter By Bob Beatty

We know: Maintaining your gutters is a thankless job. Up the ladder you go every fall to clean out decaying leaves, sharp twigs and the occasional mystery item, only to be foiled anew by Mother Nature. Then again, spending a couple of hours a year on your gutters is a small price to pay for the protection they provide your home.

Rain gutters perform two important functions: First, they catch and reroute water runoff so it doesn't damage your home's exterior. Second, they direct water away from your home's foundation, where it would otherwise collect and possibly seep into the basement. But invariably, gutters clog or fail. So here are five ways to set things right.
Dirty gutter Problem One: Clogged Gutters
The usual culprits are leaves, pinecones and other tree droppings. Remove them before they turn your gutters into wading pools.

Get a bucket, a pail hookand a pair of work gloves to protect your hands from sharp twigs or jagged edges. Set up your ladder at one end of a gutter. To keep both hands free, use the pail hook to hang the bucket from the ladder. Remove debris with your hands and place it in the bucket—dropping it on the ground will just add a step to your cleanup. Move the ladder along the length of the gutter, cleaning it as you go. Use a trowel or putty knife to scrape off hardened-on gunk.
Problem Two: Clogged Downspouts
Once you've cleaned your gutters, flush them with water. If they won't drain or they drain too slowly, you have a clog in a downspout or the in-ground drainage system.

Disconnect the downspout from the in-ground drainage system if you have one. If the water still doesn't empty out, then the clog is somewhere along the downspout. Check the elbow where the gutter meets the downspout; it's common for debris to accumulate here. The elbow is usually just fitted in place so you can remove and clean it. But if it's soldered or riveted to the downspout, or if the clog is somewhere else, try reversing the normal water flow. Thread your garden hose through the bottom of the downspout, turn it on and let the water pressure rinse the clog out. It helps to have a partner watch from up top to let you know if or when the clog is clear.

If reverse water pressure doesn't do the trick, try feeding a snake through the downspout from above. If the clog is underground, feed the snake through the opening at ground level where the downspout usually connects.

Tip From the Pros
Installing gutter screens and strainers is the easiest way to prevent clogs. Screens that cover the entire gutter system typically come in 3-foot sections with clips that allow you to remove or pivot the sections easily. They're a real timesaver if you live in a heavily wooded area, where debris can build up within weeks. And at $1.50 to $3 per section, they're a relatively low-cost solution.

Leaf strainers, however, are practically useless. Because they cover only the downspout openings, in time all the junk wads up around the strainers and water cascades over the side of the gutters. Their saving grace is that they're cheap, about $3 to $4 each.
Problem Three: Sagging Gutters
Properly installed, gutters should slope 1/4 inch per 4-foot section. Because their slope is so slight, sagging gutters are rarely obvious. Look for puddles of water in the gutter, a giveaway that water isn't flowing to a downspout.

If your gutters sag, the usual suspects are the fasteners that hold the gutters to your house. Fasteners come in three general types: spikes—long nails—that are driven through ferrules and into the fascia; bracket hangers that are fastened directly to the fascia; and strap hangers that are attached to the roof, underneath the shingles.

If bracket or strap hangers secure your gutter, you can often just bend a hanger or two up or down to adjust the slope. If your gutter is attached with spikes, which are notorious for pulling loose over time, you can replace them with 7- or 8-inch screws that are thin enough to fit through the ferrules. Trouble is, the wood around the old holes may have rotted, and screwing into it will worsen the rot. All in all, if your spike-and-ferrule fasteners are pulling loose, replace them with strap hangers or bracket hangers. They'll last longer and support better.

After you've adjusted or replaced the fasteners, test the slope by flushing water through the gutters and checking for puddles.
Problem Four: Corroded Spot or Leak in Gutters
Prep metal gutters by using a wire brush to scrub debris and rust away from the damaged area, then wipe down that section with turpentine. While it dries, use tin snips to cut a patch of sheet metal. The patch should extend 2 inches beyond the damaged area on each side.

With a putty knife, apply a coat of roofing cement that covers the damaged area with a 4-inch margin on each side. Press the patch into the first coat of roofing cement and apply another coat over the top. Smooth the edges of the cement around the patched section.

Tip From the Pros
If your gutters are sectional—10-foot lengths attached by connectors—just replace the leaky section. Use gutter sealant or silicone caulk to reattach sections. If you have steel or copper gutters, however, you may need to solder the sections together. Unless you've worked with solder before, this is a job for a professional.

Problem Five: Leaky Gutter Joints
If a gutter joint has a small leak, use a wire brush to clean the area of any dirt or debris, and let it dry completely. Apply sealant directly into the joint and let it set.

If the joint is leaking badly, disassemble the section and use a wire brush to remove debris and old sealant. Apply fresh sealant to both ends of the removed section and reattach it with screws or rivets.

Bob Beatty is a writer and editor for CornerHardware.co

Cleaning Your Gutters Could Avoid Major Home Repairs
by Tom Kraeutler

If you think a few leaves and twigs in you gutter are harmless, think again. Clean gutters are the single most important key to avoiding major and expensive home repairs. Gutters perform one duty: controlling the water around you home. And if debris keeps them from doing their job, then you can wind up with some serious problems:

Leaking Basements: Clogged gutters are the number one cause of basement water problems. Roof water overflows and accumulates around the foundation. If this happens, basement leaks may be moments away.

Cracked Foundations: Excess water against the foundation wall can weaken the footing and lead to cracks. This is particularly true in the colder months when built-up water at the foundation freezes and causes a condition known as "frost-heave" which can cause severe cracks to foundation walls.

Rotten Wood: Water backing up from clogged gutters will cause moisture damage to the wood fascia around the house. The rotted area will get worse quickly if the leak is not eliminated by cleaning the gutters.

Leaking Roofs: In winter, ice-dams can form on top of clogged gutters. Then snow builds up across the top of the gutter and freezes. During the next thaw, water running off the roof is blocked by the frozen snow and backs up into the house. This can lead to major wall and ceiling damage.

Slippery Sidewalks: Overflowing gutters can deposit water on walks and driveways where it can freeze and cause a slipping hazard. Avoid this problem by keeping gutters clean and the spouts extended away from any traffic areas.

Sagging Driveways: Misdirected and clogged gutter spouts often cause driveways and walks to sag and crack.

Washed-out Landscaping: Any newly installed plants, grass or trees can be killed by excess water. Overflowing gutters can cause severe erosion and put and early end to young plantings.

Wood Destroying Insects: Bugs love moisture. Keeping the soil dry around the foundation perimeter can force bugs to go elsewhere for a tasty snack of dampened two-by-four.

If you think your gutters need a good tune-up, here are some important steps to follow:

* Safety First - If you are not comfortable with heights or don't use tall ladders regularly, this is not a job for you. Consider hiring a handyman to help. If you decide to do the job yourself, watch out for hidden hazards like electric lines or bees' nests.

* Clear Gutters - Using a ladder, work gloves and a hose, clear the gutters beginning at one end and moving to the other. Always work from the ladder and not from the roof, where you could fall off. If you find any loose gutter sections, tighten them up as you go along. It may help to have a supply of long lag bolts to use when replacing loose or missing gutter spikes. Lag bolts won't pull out like spikes, so you usually don't have to do this more than once.

* Spray Spouts - When you get to the end of the gutter where the spout is, spray the hose down it to make sure it's clear. If the spout is clogged, water will back up and cause problems. Clearing clogged spouts can be a chore. Try removing the debris from both ends and flushing out the rest with a hose. If this doesn. t work you may need to take the spout apart to clear it. Once the spouts are clear, make sure the discharge end is extended at least 4 to 6 feed away from the house to avoid problems.

* Install Gutter Guards - Once the gutter system is cleaned and properly adjusted, consider installing gutter guards to avoid a repeat performance in the future. There are many types of guards available. Results can be varied. Screens can be effective in the short run, but eventually allow debris to get through. Clogs will recur and can beg even harder to clear since the screens will need to be removed first. There are a number of leaf blocking guards available. These look like a metal louver that is installed above the gutter. The louvers allow water to leak into the gutter while washing leaves over the side. While highly effective, these often cost three times as much as the gutter system itself.

This page addresses another common problem that rain gutters have; that is, why do those old spikes keep wanting to work out? It has to do with old mother nature.

* As the temperature changes from hot to cool, your gutter will expand and contract. This happens no matter what the gutter material (steel, aluminum, plastic, or wood).
* As the material warms up, it will expand laterally, but the spikes will try to restrict its expansion. Most of us have seen what happens to highways we drive on. On a very hot day, they will bulge or blow up. This same expansion also accrues to your gutters.
* This force puts a large amount of pressure on the spike and over a period of time will force the nail out. The longer the gutter run (length) the more noticeable this problem is.
* If you take note, you will notice more nail working out on the ends than in the middle of the run. That's where most of the force is. It never pushes the spike back in, but just keeps working it farther out.

Using a gripping spike (ring shank) or a screw, will not keep the gutter from expanding and contracting, but will not pull out as easily. They grip the wood better than a smooth spike.

When your nails have once been pulled out, they have lost their ability to hold, this can be repaired by using the Hidden Hanger or Gutter Screws (See screws). These hangers will give your gutters the needed support (test results) to keep them in working condition. They are very user-friendly and easy to install. We recommend they be secured with screws.

Expansion and contraction is also the reason that your gutters will over a period of time, leak at the joints. This constant movement along with mother nature's elements (u.v. and moisture) will cause most joint sealer to become hard and crack. Once this accrues the repair is difficult and the life of the repair is very short, usually only one season.

Having seamless gutters installed takes care of the problem of leaks at the joints as compared to sectional guttering. The extra cost of seamless guttering is not that great, when you take into account the benefit it offers. They are available in 20 different colors, in steel, aluminum, and copper material. There are 3 different styles: K-Style (most common), box style, and half round. These are available in different sizes: 4-inch, 5-inch, 6-inch, and some even larger for commercial use. As you can see, this allows you a lot of options to choose from; and always remember it is usually priced installed.

Another common problem known to gutters is that the water still runs behind them and drips off the face board.

This problem is common with homes that have roofs that do not have much pitch to them. For example. Most ranch style homes have a 3-12 or 4-12 pitch roof. When the roof shingles do not extend past the metal drip edge the water will suck back on the metal drip edge and run behind your gutters (see drawings).

* This problem can be solved by always placing the back of the gutter under the drip edge when you install your gutter.

* If your gutter has been previously installed, rather than taking it down and redoing it, you can easily place a small strip of metal flashing under the drip edge and over the back of the gutter (as shown by the top left drawing at the bottom of this page) so the water will shed into the gutter.

* This problem can do extensive damage to your fasica covering and paint.

* The flashing should be secured with screws.

* Do not waste your time by trying to fix this problem with some caulking, you will just have to redo it again in a year or two, use the metal flashing and be done with it.

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Quick Answers
question I live in a wooded area. Is there an easy way to keep leaves and debris out of my gutters?
Answer You may be interested in installing Gutter Protectors (Gutter helmet, gutter guard).

Question Should I get a licensed gutter person to install my gutters or it this a Do-It-Yourself project?
Answer Check out answers to this question and many more in our Commonly Asked Gutter Installation Questions.

question How do I get gutter pricing from a professional contractor in my area?
Answer It's simple. Just Request a Gutter Quote for new gutters here.

Great Links

Gutters resoucces

This page serves as your entry point to learning more about gutters. Browse through all the sections, or just a few. At any point feel free to Request a Gutter Quote.
gutter installation

Section I. Gutter Materials

Section II. Gutter Construction (Sectional vs. Seamless Gutters, Sizes and Shapes, Color)

Section III. Gutter Features (Gutter Protectors, Leaf Guards)

Section IV.Commonly Asked Questions

Section V. Tips To Remember

Back to top
Section I. — Gutter Materials

Gutters and downspouts - the vertical sections that send runoff down to the ground - are made out of aluminum, vinyl, galvanized steel, stainless steel and copper. Wood is also an option, but wood gutters are rare, except for restoration work. They're also expensive, starting at about $12 per linear foot installed and, depending on the wood species, running as high as $20 per linear foot. Copper is another material usually reserved for classic restorations. It's handsome, never rusts and never needs painting. But at about $15 per linear foot, it's also expensive.
Wood Gutters and Galvanized Downspouts
This was the traditional construction system employed and is rarely used today. The original wood gutters were made from old growth cedar, a product that is rarely available today. Its substitution with new growth cedar or hemlock gutters has proven inadequate. Galvanized downspouts do not tend to last as long the newer products available on the market.

Continuous Aluminum Gutters and Downspouts
This is the most common product used today. The gutter holds more water than traditional wood gutter, and this is the product, which is generally recommended. The one disadvantage of aluminum gutters is that they may tend to deform when a heavy ladder is leaned up against them. This is a minor shortcoming, which can be overcome by careful use of ladders.

When buying any metal gutters, choose the thickest you can afford - optimally .032 in. Though .027-, .025- and .019-in.-thick gutters are available, they won't hold up as well. When buying aluminum gutters, insist on primary aluminum, which is the thickest and most consistent kind. Avoid secondary aluminum, a recycled product that's often plagued by inconsistent thickness.

Vinyl and Plastic Gutters and Downspouts
This is a commonly used material and often sold in do-it-yourself hardware stores. It is easily installed by the homeowner, and when properly installed is a good product. It is also susceptible to damage by heavy ladders, as well as long-term deterioration by ultraviolet light from the sun.

Vinyl gutters, besides being impervious to rust and rot, are easiest to cut to size; you can install them yourself in a weekend or less. But vinyl can get brittle with age or in extreme cold. And while gutter sections cost just $3 to $5 per 10-ft. length, they still wind up at about $3 and $5 per linear foot installed when you factor in the cost of couplings, hangers and downspouts.

Integral Gutters
A popular gutter style in the 1960's was the integral gutter. The end of the rafters and fascia on a sloped roof forms this system. The gutter is lined with a built-up roofing material and has the advantage of being able to hold a great deal more water than most of the other types of gutters. The disadvantage of this gutter style is in the potential for leaks, which can result in damage to the framing, fascia, soffit, and sheathing of the roof. In order to prevent such damage, these gutters need to be carefully inspected every few years and the lining replaced or repaired every five to ten years. Should such a gutter system prove troublesome, it is possible to convert this gutter into a standard gutter configuration at the time of re-roofing.
Steel and Aluminum Gutters are the types most homeowners choose. With prices ranging from about $4 to $8 per linear foot installed, galvanized-steel gutters are the most economical. Steel gutters can stand up to ladders and fallen branches better than aluminum. But even thick galvanized steel eventually rusts through. Stainless-steel gutters are strong and rust-free, and maintain their high sheen for years. But as with other high-end custom materials, the drawback is cost: about $20 per linear foot. For this reason, galvanized-steel, aluminum or vinyl gutters are the predominant varieties.

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Section II. — Gutter Construction
Sectional vs. Seamless
All gutters are either sectional or seamless (or continuous). Sectional gutters are sold in pieces and installed as component systems. All do-it-yourself gutter systems are sectional, though pros install these, too. The sections themselves can be over 20 ft. long each or cut to any size with a hacksaw. Snap-in-place connectors join gutter sections to each other and to downspouts. All sectional systems have end caps, corner pieces and drop outlets for connecting to downspouts. The drawback to sectional systems is that all those seams can eventually invite leaks. Seamless gutters won't leak at seams because there are none; sections join only at inside and outside corners and at downspout outlets. That's why they're the most popular configuration. Seamless gutters, made of aluminum, galvanized steel or copper, are extruded to custom lengths on site using a portable machine.
Sizes and Shapes
Most gutters come in several sizes and shapes called profiles. These include U shapes as well K configurations, in which the ogee-shaped front looks like the letter K. Gutter channels are available in 4-, 5- or 6-in. diameters; 5-in. Ks are the most common. You'll also find downspout choices that include 2X3-in. or 3X4-in. rectangular shapes, as well as 3- or 4-in. round pipes. Particularly in leafy areas, use larger downspouts, which minimize clogs.
K-Shape
k Shaped Gutters
U-Shape
u Shaped Gutters

Color
Sectional aluminum and steel gutters come in more than 25 different colors - ideal for matching trim and house colors. Gutter colors are baked on at the factory. Vinyl typically is brown or white; the latter color holds up better in intense sun. Copper is prized for its natural color and comes unpainted. If you like the look of copper but not the price, Alcoa sells a faux-copper gutter made of aluminum. Called Musket Brown, it sells for about $9 per linear foot installed.

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Section III. — Features

Gutter Protectors
What is the fundamental job of a gutter protector? Being a gutter protector is pretty tough work--24 hours a day, 365 days a year, year in and year out, the gutter protector has to defend your gutter, in all kinds of weather and wind storm conditions, against an assault of leaves, blossoms, twigs, birds, squirrels, balls, toys, and so on.

However, there are some homes located under a canopy of trees--no daylight to be seen from late May to the end of November. It's these homeowners who would normally have to clean their gutters 5-to-6 times in the fall and another 3-to-4 times in the spring to keep their gutters clean and free flowing that find "suit and tie" maintenance a welcome alternative to cleaning gutters.

There are three basic designs for gutter protectors:

1. Single vane type such as the helmet type.
2. Single vane helmet type with built-in trough with sieve openings.
3. Louvered systems. All others (step and slotted filter types) fall in the category of screening systems and are not considered gutter protectors because their openings are predominately on the horizontal surface where debris is held by gravity and clogs the sieves or openings.

Leaf Guards
Reasonable and affordable, Leaf Guards eliminate clogged gutters which can lead to expensive home repairs, such as:

* Sagging Gutters
* Wet Walls
* Leaky and Cracked Foundations
* Flooded Basements

Leaf Guards eliminate one of the messiest jobs at your home, freeing up your time for more leisurely activities. Leaf Guards promote being cautious, as you will avoid dangerous ladder climbing to clean out clogs caused by leaves and debris. Leaf Guards offer a low profile, are pleasing to the eye and preserve your home's "curb appeal."

There are various types of leaf guards and below is a sampling:
GuttaGuard. An economical all metal solid cover design. Sheds pine needles, leaves, twigs and other small debris. 20 feet per box. Available in white, black, brown and mill finish. Each piece is 4 feet.
Gutter Guard
PermaFlow. Considered by many to be the "Cadillac" of Leaf Guard products, Permaflow is highly effective and provides a distinctive "crown molding" Appearance when installed. Permaflow is an advanced design in leaf protection. The two super flow design channels will handle up to 10 inches rainfall per hour. The system slides under the shingle and locks onto the gutter. Made of UV protected pvc, to withstand the sun's harsh rays.
PermaFlow
LockOn. This is a favorite among builders and contractors. Lock-On is very durable and has a low visibility once installed. Made of a rigid expanded steel mesh. Each piece is 4 feet.
LockOn gutter
DropIn. Reinforced edge fits directly to gutter lip, making installation easy. Expanded mesh is rigid enough not to collapse under heavy debris. Low visibility. Mill Finish. Each piece is 3 feet.
DropIn gutter
Solid Cover Is considered to have a more sophisticated look, is ultra low profile and has exceptional leaf shedding qualities. Debris filters harmlessly off the roof while rain enters the specially designed drain channel. Solid Cover represents the next generation in "maintenance free" gutter hamlets. Engineered to handle the very extreme downpours. Solid Cover will drain 5 inches of rainfall each hour.
Solid gutter Cover

How do Gutter Protectors Differ? They differ essentially in two different ways.

1. How they interfit with the roofing or how they don't interfit with the roofing.
2. How they get the water into the gutter.

Besides the Importance of the Product Catching Water You Will Definitely Want to Also Consider the Following:

1. How it's connected to the roof. The last thing anyone would want to do is invest in a gutter protector to solve one problem and end up having other problems such as leaks in the roof.
2. Birds getting into the gutter protectors.
3. Clips that fail causing the gutter protector to collapse and fall into the gutter.

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Section IV. — Commonly Asked Questions

Customer Question
Are plastic gutters really inferior? Should I get a licensed gutter person?

Reply
Vinyl gutters are not "inferior" to any other product, simply an alternative. Quality vinyl gutters: Retain their color; remain flexible; are relatively easy to repair or replace; don't rust or corrode; have a greater dent resistance than lightweight aluminum (often called continuous or seamless gutters); can be painted, if desired, using a exterior 100-percent acrylic paint (However, exterior vinyl should be painted no darker than the manufacturer's original color, to avoid warping. To paint, lightly abrade the exterior surfaces with sandpaper, but don't paint the interior, as the smooth vinyl surface of the channel aids in the movement of leaves, dirt and other debris); and can be installed by a do-it-yourselfer or licensed contractor. One of the most important aspects of installation is maintaining a proper slope, so that water and debris flow and drain properly.

Customer Question
Our home does not have a fascia board. It has exposed eaves with the rafters coming out. Can gutters be installed on this type of area? I have only seen gutters mounted on large vertical fascia boards. Is there a special type of gutter for this situation or just special fasteners or are they mounted directly on the rafters?

Reply
There are several methods for hanging gutters from rafter ends. What you will need are rafter-end brackets and straps that are used with metal and vinyl gutter systems.

Customer Question
My gutters leak/spill over in the middle but don't appear to sag. I checked and they are not clogged with leaves. What should I do?

Reply
The first thing we should look at is to confirm that the gutter is not sagging, or draining away from the gutter downspout. Use a builders bubble level and check the direction of flow. While up on the ladder, check the gutter dropouts for any hidden obstructions that may be slowing the water flow. If everything is found to be in order, you may need additional downspouts to handle the volume of water coming off the roof. Additional dropouts and downspouts can easily be added to existing gutter systems

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Section V. — Tips to Remember

Ice, snow and wind can have devastating consequences on the coziest of homes. Last winter alone there was over $1.5 billion dollars in insured losses due to burst pipes, frozen gutters and other weather-related disasters, according to the Insurance Information Institute (I.I.I.).

"It is when the leaves start to turn and not when the snow is beginning to fall that homeowners need to get ready for severe winter weather," says Jayna Neagle, spokeswoman for the I.I.I. "A little time and effort in October or November can prevent the heartache of burst pipes and other disasters when Old Man Winter brings snow, freezing temperatures and arctic winds.

The I.I.I. suggests that homeowners take the following precautions:

Maintain Gutters
Remove leaves, acorns, sticks and other debris from gutters, so melting snow and ice can flow freely. This can prevent ice damming - a condition where water is unable to properly drain through the gutters and instead seeps into the house causing water to drip from the ceiling and walls. You may also consider installing "gutter guards." Available in most hardware and home stores, gutter guards are screens that prevent debris from entering the gutter and direct the flow of water away from the house and into the ground.

Following are tips and suggestions on how to repair and maintain downspouts and gutters. These ideas can save you a lot of trouble and expense and help you lengthen the life of your gutters and downspouts. Inside this document you will find information about:

* Why You Should Maintain Downspouts and Gutters
* Adjusting the Pitch of Gutters
* Stopping Clogs in Gutters and Downspouts
* Patching Leaks in Gutters
* Maintaining Downspouts

WHY YOU SHOULD MAINTAIN DOWNSPOUTS AND GUTTERS

* Taking the time to maintain and repair downspouts and gutters can double or even triple the life of your roof drainage system. This can save you a lot of money on repair costs.

* Inspect your downspouts and gutters about twice a year. Carefully examine them in the spring just before the spring rains. Inspect them again in the fall when leaves, limbs and other debris might cause problems.

* Improper drainage due to poor roof pitch is one of the biggest causes of roof drainage problems. Improper drainage causes water to accumulate in certain spots in the gutters, ultimately building up debris and accelerating rust.

* Clogged gutters and downspouts can also be a big problem. Thoroughly clean all debris from the gutters and downspouts at least twice a year (Fig. 1). If there are a number of trees near your home, clean the gutters with a whisk broom even more often than twice a year.

* Rust can be a big problem. Keep the gutters properly cleaned and the pitch set correctly to slow down the rusting process.

ADJUSTING THE PITCH OF GUTTERS

* The gutters on your home should be installed so there is a drop of approximately 1/16" for each 1' of length of guttering.

* You can use a chalk line and a level to take a reading and mark the slope of your gutters. Another way is to pour a bucket of water into the gutter and observe the flow. If it runs off without leaving pools of water in the gutter, the gutter is set properly. If there are low spots, the water will sit in the gutter and locate the trouble spots.

* Ordinarily, the pitch of a gutter can be set in only one direction. However, gutter runs of more than 35' should slant in each direction from the center (Fig. 2). Again, the drop should be set at a rate of 1/16" of fall for each 1' of gutter.

* High or low spots detected in the gutter run can often be corrected by bending the hanger than supports the gutter (Fig. 3). A slight bend up or down can often remove the low or high spot.

* Some gutters are installed with spikes and sleeves, sometimes called spikes and ferrules (Fig. 4). You may need to add an additional spike or sleeve to raise or lower the fall of the gutter at any specific point.

* When extra spikes or sleeves are added, use a power drill to make a hole through the gutter before inserting the spike and sleeve.

* Gutters are usually held in place with either spikes and sleeves or hangers.

* There are two basic types of gutter hangers. One is the strap hanger (Fig. 5). This type of hanger supports the gutter with a wraparound strap underneath the gutter. A long strap is then affixed to the top and nailed to the sheathing under the edge of the roof. The roofing material covers the strap, making it totally inconspicuous.

* The bracket hanger is nailed or screwed to the fascia underneath the eave of the roof (Fig. 5). Either of these types of hangers can be added as needed to remove high and low spots in a run of gutter. Add braces that matchthose already in use.

STOPPING CLOGS IN GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

* Clogging usually occurs in a drainage system at the elbow where the downspout connects to the gutter (Fig. 6). Since this elbow is relatively easy to remove, it is a good idea to remove it and inspect for clogging.

* If the clogging is not in the elbow, check farther down the downspout.

* You can usually check the downspout from the bottom. However, if the downspout is inserted in an underground tiling system, you may need to use a plumber's or electrician's snake to clean the downspout (Fig. 7). This type of metal snake can be used to penetrate the downspout for a great distance, removing any obstacles causing clogging and backup problems.

* If your roof drainage system is exposed to falling leaves and debris, you should install leaf strainers in all downspout outlets (Fig. 8). These strainers insert into the downspout outlet. They permit the free passage of water but stop any leaves or other objects that can cause problems in downspout drainage.

* Leaf strainers are easy to install and are relatively inexpensive.

* You can solve most drainage problems by installing leaf guards over your entire gutter system (Fig. 9). There are various types of leaf guards available.

* Leaf guards of metal, plastic, etc., are usually mounted in the same way. Lift the lower run of shingles and insert the leaf guard underneath. Some leaf guards clamp over the edge of the gutter.

* The leaf guards hold the leaves and other falling debris on top of the guard while allowing water to flow freely through the drainage system. The leaves then dry on top of the guard and are quickly blown away.

FIG. 10 - Scrape off allrust on the gutter with a steel brush.
FIG. 11 - Cover the area with a rust treatment or rust-inhibiting paint.
FIG. 12 - Coat the area with a heavy layer of plastic cement.
FIG. 13 - Cover the area with heavy aluminum foil or plastic before the cement dries.

PATCHING LEAKS IN GUTTERS

* Any type of gutter will ultimately need some mending or repairing. However, aluminum and plastic gutters and downspouts last much longer than those made of galvanized steel.

* When leaks occur, you may want to totally replace entire sections of the gutter rather than trying to mend them. However, small leaks and rust spots can easily be patched or mended.

* The first step in repairing a rusted and leaky gutter is to scrape off all the rust (Fig. 10). Use a steel brush or a 1/4" drill and a power rotary brush.

* Take time to remove as much of the rust as possible. Old rust left underneath the mending job simply starts to work again.

* Next, cover the area to be repaired with either a rust treatment or rust-inhibiting paint. Allow it to dry thoroughly (Fig. 11).

* For small holes, apply a 1/8" thick layer of plastic cement specially made for gutter repairs or use ordinary roof cement (Fig. 12).

* For larger holes, follow this same procedure. While the cement is still wet, cover the area with strips of heavy aluminum foil or plastic (Fig. 13). Cut the patch material to fit exactly inside the repaired area.

* Press the patch down tightly into the gutter with a dry cloth. Wear gloves during this part of the repair job.

* When joining two pieces of patch material, overlap it in the direction of the water flow and cement the edges together securely. Be sure the overlap is in the direction of the water flow–otherwise, water may enter at the seam.

MAINTAINING DOWNSPOUTS

* Even the best gutter system cannot function properly unless all downspouts are in working order. Take the time to examine your downspout system at the same time you are mending and repairing your gutters.

* If the downspouts drain into an underground tile system, make a careful check at the point where the downspout enters the underground tiling (Fig. 14). Make sure it is cemented firmly into place and there is no backup or overflow.

* You can use a plumber's or electrician's snake to clean any possible obstructions in the downspout system.

* Most downspouts empty onto a splash block (Fig. 15). Be sure these splash blocks are large enough and high enough to carry the water away from the foundation of the house.

* Check the splash blocks occasionally to make sure they are not broken or deteriorating. Downspouts that pour water around the foundation of the house can cause basement or crawl space water problems. Secure splash blocks remove much of this danger.

* You may need to add extra downspouts to carry water completely away from the house (Fig. 16).

* You can attach an extra length of downspout at the elbow to continue it as far away from the house as necessary.

* Special roll-up downspout sheets are available that extend themselves when filled with water and roll up when the water is emptied. These perform the same function as an extended downspout, but they avoid the unsightliness of the downspout extended into the yard.

* Add downspout simply by crimping the end of the material with a pair of pliers (Fig. 17). The new piece of downspout will slip easily into the original piece.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST
Gutter Whisk Broom
Pliers Leaf Strainer
Leaf Guards Ladder
Power Drill Steel Brush for Power Drill
Plumber's or Electrician's Snake Plastic Cement
Splash Block Gutter & Downspout Accessories
Heavy Aluminum Foil Hacksaw
Downspout Gloves
Level Line Level
Steel Wool Steel Brush
Paintbrush

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Ask for Other "Show-How" Instruction Sheets
Additional easy-to-use instruction sheets for home do-it-yourself projects are available from your local supplier of materials. Come in and ask for "Show-How" instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!